Monday, March 25, 2013

Where the Heck is Saluda?

For your information, Saluda is at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains in the western part of the state of North Carolina. The city of Asheville is due north. It is very close to the South Carolina border. I know this because I missed the first exit on my way home and ended up driving through part of South Carolina.

Saluda was first known as Pace's Gap. Construction of the railroad through Saluda changed the area forever. It went through many different phases. At one time it was a popular place to go in the summer to escape the brutal heat of the Carolinas. Today it is a small community of artists and craftsman. The main street is just across from the now defunct railroad tracks. Wonderful art shops, craft stores, "old timey" grocery stores, city hall, the police station, and a few restaurants line one side of the road. These are not your run of the mill souvenir gift shops. Items sold here are unique, high quality, and fairly priced. Shop owners are warm and friendly. Saluda hosts events such as Coon Dog Day, Saluda Art Festival, and Town BBQ. You know its a small town immediately because the first question people ask is, "where are you from?". Translation: you do not live here.

Six of the ladies in my book club just returned from a weekend in Saluda. When we planned the trip, "Where the heck is Saluda?" was the response from most of the husbands, offspring and friends. "What's there?" was often the next question. One of our members moved to the nearby town of Flat Rock several years ago. She invited us to come to the area for a visit. Five of us ventured up there to meet her on Friday evening and find out the answers. I had actually spent an afternoon there with my husband once, but I didn't remember much of it. We had gotten some disturbing news earlier in the day and I was in a bit of a fog (as was Saluda a good part of this weekend).

We stayed in the Saluda Mountain Lodge. It sits on the rim of the Green River Gorge and has views of five mountain ranges. Out back is a fire pit/fountain surrounded by Adirondack chairs. Outdoor furniture made from twisted branches sits on the front lawn. Both front and back provide spectacular views. The inn is a long, one story motel building that has been refurbished. Each room is a little bit different. Its a cozy, rustic type of place. The owners are a warm and friendly family. We arrived after dinner on Friday evening. There was a fire laid for us in the fire pit. Once we settled our belongings in our rooms, the owner lit the fire and brought out a basket of s'more ingredients. You just don't get that kind of treatment at a chain hotel. We were offered hot chocolate, given cups for our wine, and basically made to feel at home.

Saturday morning was damp and cold. After sharing breakfast in my room, the six of us ventured into the pint-sized town of Saluda. We didn't get very far down the road before we stopped at The Wildflower Bakery for coffee and tea. The aroma in the bakery was heavenly. Luckily our tummies were full, so we resisted the baked goods. Several hours and many dollars later, we finished perusing the shops of Saluda. We had eaten hand made chocolates and found  treasures we simply HAD to buy. There were so many beautiful items to examine. Surprisingly, we saw metal art that was crafted by a man to whom I am related by marriage.

Lunch was eaten at the Saluda Grade Cafe'. The restaurant is painted in bright colors, such as purple and yellow. A long bench with a variety of throw pillows lines one wall. All of the menu items sounded so good that we couldn't decide what to order.  Fortunately, we had the option of ordering two halves of a salad,  sandwich, or serving of soup. Each of us ordered half of this and half of that. Everything was excellent. The food was fresh, flavorful, attractive, and delicious.

The sun finally came out and we drove to Carl Sandburg's home. A short hike to the main house routed us through the woods and past a lake. A National Park Service volunteer led us on a tour of the house for a whopping $5 entrance fee. The front veranda offered a dramatic view. A path led from the house to the goat  barn area. All of the goats there are descendants of the dairy goats that Mrs. Sandburg bred. We played with the animals and enjoyed the sunshine. A path looped us back to the parking lot. Along the way we watched a striped bass and some other fish in the lake. The estate has several hiking trails. You could spend a good part of the day there if you choose to hike the trails. By the way, dogs are not allowed in the house or near the goats, but the trails are dog friendly.

By the time we left, it was five o'clock. Next stop was the town of Hendersonville and a visit to the Appalachian Brewery. Our original plan was to head into Asheville for dinner. After chatting over some craft beer and hand made pretzels, the group voted to skip going into Asheville. The small town charm of Saluda was too captivating. Since I was the driver for the weekend, that was fine with me.

The Purple Onion was the unanimous choice for our evening meal. Live music was on the agenda at the restaurant. I guess word was out, because the place was crowded when we got there. We headed to the bar for a glass of wine while we waited for a table. Being that we were a bunch of middle aged women let loose for a weekend "chatfest", we requested a table in the room that didn't have a loud band playing in it. We were accommodated very nicely. The proprietors had closed a patio in with tent sides. We were seated out there and warmed by heaters that hung above our heads. The appetizers and entrees were wonderful. Service was friendly. The only negative thing I could say is that the waitress really didn't know the answer to one particular question. Instead of finding out the answer, it was obvious she was just making it up. I ordered something else. My food was great, so no big loss. Before we sat down, several of the women were eyeing the desserts and planning to eat one. By the time we finished our dinner, nobody had room for dessert.

We all waddled out of the restaurant and back the the Lodge. We decided to settle our bill that night instead of waiting until morning. The owners were happy to do that for us, and we stood talking with them for a long time. Their precious three year old son ran back and forth to their apartment to bring each of us a Dove chocolate. The couple offered to build us another bonfire. We were all tired, and it was cold out, so we opted to turn in for the night.

Sunday morning was rainy and the fog was thick. We were able to sit by the window and watch the fog coming and going for several hours. I felt like I was up in the clouds. After sharing our breakfast again, we packed up and headed home. It poured all the way home, making the drive less than ideal.

Our weekend in Saluda was relaxing and fed our souls.  The time was short and sweet. If you were to have a week or two to spend in the area, there are plenty of things to keep you busy. Nearby attractions include The Biltmore, Chimney Rock, Dupont State Forest, UNC-Asheville, Flat Rock, Lake Lure, the Broad River, French Broad River, the Green River, and Asheville.

Now that you know where the heck Saluda is and a little bit about what is there, you should hurry up and make a reservation. I know I plan to go back there. Who wants to come?

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