Having been raised on an island, I am a bit of a beach snob. We had beaches run by the national government, the state government, townships, towns, and private beaches. The south shore beaches are on the ocean and barrier islands, the north shore beaches are on the sound, and between the tines of the fork at the end of the island is a giant bay. I grew up going to the ocean for the day, getting lobster red, and returning home with a bathing suit full of sand. We brought a cooler filled with lunch and snacks, one of those giant metal thermoses with a spigot on it, a heavy umbrella, sand toys, and a scratchy old army blanket to sit on. This scene was repeated by hundreds of families spaced every few feet along the wide beach. The water was rough and cold, the lifeguards blew their whistles constantly, people were smart enough to keep their private parts covered and their language fairly clean. After a long day, we would all do a quick rinse in the cold outdoor shower before leaving for the ride home. The car was not air conditioned, so by the time we got back home were hot, tired, and cranky. I loved it.
When I became a teenager, I was permitted to ride a free bus that took us to one of the north shore beaches. No waves, but loads of teenagers running free. Long, lazy days spent swimming and sunning was my idea of a perfect summer. I went as often as I possibly could.
The beaches that I frequented had concession stands, bathhouses, maybe a boardwalk, playground, or picnic area with grills. The state beach had a miniature golf course and volleyball courts. Beaches in that area were very wide and could accommodate thousands of people.They had expansive parking lots.
There were many beach towns all along the coast. Some were ritzy, some quaint, some quirky. Hordes of vacationers still flock to their own summer homes or the many rentals to enjoy the beach. Renting a cabana for the summer is also an option. Boating and fishing are huge pass times. Several old fishing towns have become upscale tourist areas.
What we did NOT see where high rise hotels along the beach. When I see photos of Miami, Waikiki, etc, it makes me sad. In my opinion, beaches should not look like the edge of a city. If you have ever been to Myrtle Beach, you will understand what I mean.Wax museums, Ripley's, outlet malls, souvenir shops should not be what draws people to vacation at the beach. The big attractions should be the sand, surf, and wildlife. I don't want to hear roller coasters, screams (unless it comes out of the mouth of a seagull calling his buddies), cars drag racing down the main road, firecrackers, sirens. I want to hear the pounding waves and not much more. Squeals of children having fun in the surf is about as loud as I want it to be.
Pine Knoll Shores in North Carolina is one of my favorite beaches. Almost any North Carolina beach could actually be called one of my favorite beaches. Most of them are quiet and family oriented. The things that make Pine Knoll Shores one of my favorites are the place that we stay in and the welcome attitude toward dogs on the beach. Besides being a beach snob, I am a crazy dog lady.
We stay at the Atlantis Lodge Inn. It is an old, family run hotel nestled in a maritime forest. Long time owners live on site. Their daughter is now the general manager and she lives across the street. The second and third floor rooms each have a balcony with an ocean view. First floor rooms have a patio adjacent to a grassy area that leads to a thicket designated as a bird sanctuary.The decor is not exactly modern, unless you consider the 1970's to be modern. Each room has kitchen, living, bedroom areas, and a bathroom. Dogs are permitted in most rooms. When you enter your room, you will not find a mint on the pillow. Instead, you will find a folded sheet and a dog biscuit on the bed. The sheet is to put on top of the bedding in case you let your dog sleep on the bed. Extra sheets are placed over the couch cushions for the same reason. Rooms are clean and beds are comfortable. Its nothing fancy, but it serves the purpose and is quite pleasant.
There is constantly a worker or two doing some type of maintenance or improvement. I have never known them to be disruptive in any way. The facility is well tended. Housekeepers are always friendly. The last time we were there the housekeeper allowed us to leave the room with the dog on the balcony while she cleaned We went for a walk, leaving her to her work. She was careful to bring the dog back into the room before she left. I would never have trusted that situation if I hadn't been there about a dozen times.
The owners have provided several deck areas on the property. One is right on the edge of the dunes. Guests gather there daily to watch the sunset. Gas grills are provided for guests use. On the third floor, there is a large gathering room. It has a pool table, ping pong table, large screen TV, books, a bar, telescopes, couches, and an extraordinary view of the ocean. The hotel has lounges and chairs on the beach. We often take a drink and hang out down there at the end of the day. The outdoor pool is nestled in the forest. During the off season, the pool water is drained down to a few feet in depth and is open to the dogs for swimming! As you exit the beach, there is a water hose, tub, and shampoo available for you to bathe your dog. The complex has many grassy areas, making it very convenient for dog owners. Shovels are placed throughout the grass areas and owners are expected to pick up after their dogs. At the top of the steps leading to the beach there is a plastic bag dispenser and a separate trash can labeled for dog poop. You are expected to pick up after your dog if you take it on the beach. If you do not, you will suffer the wrath of the general manager. I have seen it happen.
So by now you are probably picturing a free for all with barking dogs running wildly through the hotel and grounds. Not so. Dogs are expected to be leashed, well behaved, and quiet. Upon arrival the desk clerk asks for a cell phone number. If you leave the dog alone in the hotel room and it starts to make noise, they WILL call your cell phone and tell you to come back and quiet the dog. Once in a while you will hear a dog bark a little, but overall, it is a very quiet place. Disobedient dogs are not tolerated. Neither are irresponsible owners.
One of the best things about Pine Knoll Shores is that the beach is dog friendly. We always go on the off season because our dog can't take the heat and we can't take the crowds. As we walk along the shore, we let the dog off the leash for long stretches. She can sniff, swim, explore freely. As soon as we see another dog or human, we put her back on the leash. At times, we walk several miles without putting her back on the leash. As long as you are responsible, nobody seems to mind. Every time we are there we see other dogs and their owners doing the same.The waves are not usually huge, so we are very comfortable allowing her to play in the surf. Atlantic Beach borders Pine Knoll Shores. It is also very quiet. Beach cottages dot both beaches. There is one hotel that is about 6 stories. Other than that, there are no tall buildings. Sunrise and sunset are both easily seen from the hotel or beach. It is a quiet, serene setting. We love it so much that we came very close to purchasing a condo there a few years ago. I've never wanted a second home to take care of, but I sure was tempted.
But what do you do if it rains, you ask? If you are as crazy as we are, you don a rain suit and go walk on the beach. However, if it is cold or storming, that is probably not the best option. NC Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores is just up the road. It is a great place to spend an afternoon. There is also a movie theater near by. The gathering room upstairs has plenty to do to pass a rainy day. Emerald Isle is at one end of the island and Fort Macon is at the other. Morehead City and Beaufort are a short drive over the bridge to the main land. There are museums, marinas, coffee shops, bars, restaurants, and stores over there. You can also grab a book and sit in front of your window. I like to watch the boats and keep my eyes peeled for dolphins. Atlantis Lodge Inn has DVD players and movies available to borrow from the front desk.
Long weekends spent at a quiet beach feed my soul and calm my spirit like nothing else can. If you enjoy going to the beach just to go to the beach, you would enjoy Pine Knoll Shores. If you are a crazy dog lady, you should check out the Atlantis. Not so crazy about staying in an old hotel or a dog friendly hotel? There is a chain hotel with an indoor pool right across the street. A public beach access runs right along side the Atlantis. Just don't tell too many people about it. Crowds will just ruin the fun.
